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The Rolex Submariner

Rolex 50th Anniversary Submariner

The Rolex Submariner is one of the most popular models of Rolex watches. Originally released in 1953 the Rolex Submariner is highly sought after because of its robust design. With its redesigned oyster styled case, rotatable Cerachrom bezel with luminescent large hour markers and solid link oyster band it is a favorite for watch collectors as well as first time Rolex owners. Over the past few years the Rolex sports models such as the Submariner have become increasingly popular especially in the pre-owned Rolex market. The Rolex Submariner comes in a variety of metals such as stainless steel, 2 tone stainless steel and 18k gold as well as the iconic 18k solid gold model. As well as the metal combinations the Rolex Submariner also comes in a variety of bezel and dial combinations that have granted many of them special nick names by collectors. A few of these styles are known as “The Hulk” and “The Kermit” to name a couple. 

Rolex Gents Submariner

The Rolex submariner is a favorite of divers and the sailing community. The screw down crown and high water resistance make it the perfect choice for divers and sailing enthusiasts.  On September 30,1953 Professor Auguste Piccard & his son Jacques piloted their new bathyscaphe to a world record depth of 10,335 feet. The watch that accompanied them, the Rolex Submariner. This watch was attached to the outside of their craft.  At this depth the Submariner was subjected to 600 atmospheres or 2 tons of pressure per square inch. To everyone’s surprise after 2 1/4 grueling hours the watch returned in the same condition it left in marking it as the world first true water proof watch. The Submariner quickly became Rolex’s pride an joy.

Rolex Submariner Specifications

MODEL CASE
Oyster, 40 mm, steel. steel and gold, or solid 18k gold
OYSTER ARCHITECTURE
Monobloc middle case, screw-down case back and winding crown
DIAMETER
40 mm
MATERIAL
904L steel

Steel and 18K Gold

18K Solid Gold

MOVEMENT
Perpetual, mechanical, self-winding
CALIBRE
3135, Manufacture Rolex
PRECISION
-2/+2 sec/day, after casing
FUNCTIONS
Centre hour, minute and seconds hands. Instantaneous date with rapid setting. Stop-seconds for precise time setting
OSCILLATOR
Paramagnetic blue Parachrom hairspring
WINDING
Bidirectional self-winding via Perpetual rotor
POWER RESERVE
Approximately 48 hours

BEZEL
Unidirectional rotatable 60-minute graduated, scratch-resistant Cerachrom insert in ceramic, numerals and graduations coated in platinum
WINDING CROWN
Screw-down, Triplock triple waterproofness system
CRYSTAL
Scratch-resistant sapphire, Cyclops lens over the date
WATER-RESISTANCE
Waterproof to 300 metres / 1,000 feet

BRACELET
Oyster, flat three-piece links
BRACELET MATERIAL
904L steel
CLASP
Folding Oysterlock safety clasp with Rolex Glidelock extension system

DETAILS
Highly legible Chromalight display with long-lasting blue luminescence
CERTIFICATION
Superlative Chronometer (COSC + Rolex certification after casing)

 

Rolex Submariner Model Numbers by production date

Model #

  • 6200
  • 6204
  • 6205
  • 6536
  • 6536/1
  • 6538/A
  • 6538
  • 5508
  • 5510
  • 5512
  • 5513
  • 5513/17
  • 5514
  • 5517
  • 1680
  • 16800
  • 168000
  • 16610
  • 14060
  • 14060M
  • 11610LV

 

Production Years

  • 1955
  • 1953
  • 1953-1957
  • 1954-1958
  • 1955-1961
  • 1957
  • 1958-1961
  • 1958-1965
  • 1959
  • 1959-1978
  • 1962-1990
  • 1972-1978
  • 1972-1978
  • 1972-1978
  • 1966-1981
  • 1977-1987
  • 1987
  • 1987-2010
  • 1990-2002
  • 2002-2012
  • 2003-2010

Ace Watch Estate Watch and Jewelry Buyers is not affiliated with Rolex U.S.A. Ace Watch Estate Watch and Jewelry Buyers is an independent watch dealer and provides its own warranty on all watches sold. Rolex U.S.A. is under no obligation to warranty any watch sold by Ace Watch Estate Watch and Jewelry Buyers. Ace Watch Estate Watch and Jewelry buyers exclusively sells pre-owned Rolex Watches. While we do have Rolex watches that have never been worn they are still classified as “pre-owned”, 

Rolex Submariner History: From Dive Watch Pioneer to Iconic Luxury Timepiece | Ace Watch Houston

Depths Defied: The Riveting Chronicle of the Rolex Submariner History

At Ace Watch in Houston, Texas, we immerse ourselves in the undercurrents of luxury watchmaking, offering a sanctuary for pre-owned treasures that tell tales of daring. As connoisseurs of vintage Rolex Submariner watches and Rolex Submariner models, we're excited to submerge you in the Rolex Submariner history—a saga of aquatic audacity that redefined dive chronometers. Whether you're a diver pursuing a classic Rolex Submariner or a style aficionado drawn to its cinematic allure, this narrative unveils the depths of the world's most legendary tool watch.

Phrases like Rolex Submariner history and vintage Rolex Submariner stir the passions of collectors worldwide, summoning visions of coral reefs and covert missions. This enduring emblem of Rolex's waterproof prowess is a must-have for Houston enthusiasts hunting authenticated pre-owned Rolex Submariner pieces that conquer both ocean and everyday elegance.

Genesis in the Gutter: The 1953 Launch of the Rolex Submariner Origins

The Rolex Submariner history surfaces in 1953, a year when the world was still reeling from wartime innovations and the call of the deep grew louder. Rolex, under visionary Hans Wilsdorf, sought to craft the ultimate companion for professional divers, responding to the Italian Navy's demand for a watch that could withstand 100 meters of pressure. The result? Reference 6204, the inaugural Submariner—no-date simplicity at 38mm, with a rotating bezel marked in 60-minute increments for elapsed dive timing.

Powered by the automatic Calibre 1036 at 18,000 vibrations per hour, it featured luminous markers, a cyclops-free dial, and Mercedes hands for crystal-clear readability in murky waters. Early ads proclaimed it "for those who test the frontiers of sport," and its unidirectional bezel—patented that year—prevented accidental overestimation of air supply, etching the Rolex Submariner chronometer into maritime lore from the outset.

Currents of Change: Early Models and the Red Sub Era

As the 1950s deepened, the Rolex Submariner evolved with purposeful tweaks. The 1954 Ref. 6200 introduced a crown guard for added protection, while the 1959 Ref. 5512 debuted the now-iconic 40mm case with thicker lugs and a deeper red triangle on the bezel—earning the affectionate "Red Sub" moniker among vintage Rolex Submariner devotees.

These manual-wind trailblazers, like the 1962 Ref. 5513 with its maxi-dial lume plots for enhanced glow, became staples for saturation divers and frogmen. Produced through the 1980s, the 5513's no-date purity and military-issue variants (complete with tritium dials) embody the raw, unadorned spirit of Rolex Submariner models, their compressed helium scars tales of extreme deployments.

Bond's Shadow: The Date Complication and Cinematic Ascendancy

In 1962, the Rolex Submariner dove into pop culture immortality when Sean Connery's James Bond strapped on a Ref. 6538 in *Dr. No*—its gilt dial and riveted bracelet flashing amid underwater intrigue. This sparked the 1965 Ref. 1680's date complication with cyclops magnifier, the first Sub to blend utility with sophistication, featuring a red date wheel that faded to black by 1972.

The "Bond Sub" era amplified demand, with the 1970s Ref. 16800 introducing a black insert bezel and 200m rating via the Calibre 3035. Its matte dial and quick-set date catered to secret agents and civilians alike, transforming the Rolex Submariner history from niche diver's tool to global status symbol in the pantheon of luxury dive watches.

Horizons Submerged: Modern Iterations of the Rolex Submariner Line

The Submariner's lineage plunged forward, adapting to technological tides while honoring its core. The 1988 Ref. 16610, with sapphire crystal and Calibre 3135's 48-hour reserve, marked the automatic era's zenith, its glossy dial a subtle luxury upgrade for vintage Rolex Submariner chasers.

2003's Ref. 16610LV "Kermit" sprouted green bezel and lume, while 2010's Ref. 116610LN refined the Super Case with ceramic Cerachrom bezel for fade-proof platinum durability. Then, 2020's Ref. 124060 (no-date) and 126610 (date) slimmed to 41mm with Calibre 3235's Chronergy escapement—delivering +2/-2 accuracy and 70-hour power, bridging heritage and high-tech in Rolex Submariner models.

Green Depths: The Hulk and Kermit Variants

Special editions like the 2010 Ref. 116610LV Kermit and 2016's discontinued "Hulk" (Ref. 116610LV with green dial and bezel) injected vibrancy, their bold hues commanding premiums on the pre-owned market. These color pops in Rolex Submariner history appeal to those seeking personality without sacrificing dive credentials.

From Reefs to Red Carpets: Cultural Currents of the Rolex Submariner Icon

The Submariner's influence ripples beyond the waves—from Bond's espionage escapades to Steve McQueen's *The Hunt for Red October* wrist, and even David Beckham's pitch-side flair. Rolex's partnerships with COMEX and saturation diving pioneers underscore its real-world grit, while 2025 sees it adorning explorers from oceanographers to urban adventurers.

With steel Subs on eternal waitlists and pre-owned gems fetching multiples of retail, it remains the benchmark for dive chronometers, its unidirectional bezel a metaphor for forward momentum in an unpredictable world.

The Abyss Calls: An Eternal Dive in Rolex Submariner Legacy

The Rolex Submariner endures as a beacon in the blue—its rotations a pulse of pressure-tested perfection from 1953's pioneering plunge to 2025's ceramic sentinels. In the ocean of luxury horology, no vessel sails deeper or truer. For the bold at heart, the Rolex Submariner whispers: the depths are yours to claim.

Ace Watch curates pre-owned Rolex Submariner watches that embody this odyssey—drop by our Houston showroom or connect with us to secure your underwater heirloom. What's your deepest dive with a Rolex Submariner? Dive in below.

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Keira Miller Duah profile pictureKeira Miller Duah
02:00 26 Sep 25
Recently purchased a watch online and brought it in to have a few links removed. Nick took the time to walk me through the features of my watch and even shared the amazing story behind his beautiful seafoam dial watch. Juan is a rockstar! He adjusted the links quickly and at NO CHARGE. Overall, the team is incredibly knowledgeable, and I highly recommend them for all your watch needs!
Sold my Rolex deepsea. I got a fair offer from Juan. I could tell he was trying to make it a good deal for me. I ended up trading and getting a datejust here (vintage). Juan is knowledgeable and friendly to deal with unlike a lot of arrogant watch dealers.

I'll be coming back when it's time to buy more. Mostly because they treat you with dignity here unlike those videos you see on 47th st.
Preet Verma profile picturePreet Verma
21:02 17 Sep 25
I recently purchased two watches from Ace Watch, and I couldn't be happier. Both timepieces arrived exactly as described — their condition and beautifully packaged. Communication throughout the process was top-notch. I had the pleasure of working with Juan, who was incredibly professional, knowledgeable, and made the entire transaction smooth and stress-free. He went above and beyond to ensure everything went perfectly. Highly recommend Ace Watch if you're in the market for quality watches and exceptional service!
Amir Al profile pictureAmir Al
21:42 05 Sep 25
I recently purchased a luxury timepiece from this shop in Texas while residing in Florida. Initially, I was hesitant about making an out-of-state purchase, but Juan provided exceptional professionalism and guidance throughout the entire process.
He ensured every detail was transparent and seamless, earning my complete trust.
I highly recommend this shop to anyone seeking quality timepieces and outstanding service.
Jorge Garrett profile pictureJorge Garrett
22:12 03 Sep 25
Purchased a watch from Ace Watch Company and could not be more pleased.

I worked with Juan directly and he was super helpful, patient and helped answer all of my questions.

Watch was in excellent condition as described (exceeded expectations) and they even offer a 1 year warranty on it.

I highly recommend them and would definitely buy from them again. Thank you Juan
Fred McCandless profile pictureFred McCandless
03:57 12 Nov 22
This is by far the best dealer in Houston. Ask for Pete the man knows his stuff. I got a great deal on my Rolex, thanks again guys.
Art Fleener profile pictureArt Fleener
17:52 12 Oct 22
First time buyer from this company. I knew the watch I was looking for and they had 3 of them on hand.

The price was great, and the service was perfect. 24 hours after I first talked to Juan I had my new watch, and it was exactly what I was looking for.
Jill Underhill profile pictureJill Underhill
21:48 18 May 22
These fellas rock. They took very good care of me. I had some jewelry and a watch lying around collecting dust, and took them elsewhere first to see what they would offer. Then, I came to Ace Watch Estate Watch and Jewelry Buyers Houston. They offered considerably more, and were very kind to boot. I decided- then and there- not to go to a third place for another offer, though that was my original plan. Feeling comfortable and respected is also worth a lot.
Melissa Thompson profile pictureMelissa Thompson
03:47 13 Apr 22
This is the first time for us to visit a gold buyer/coin buyer, and estate sale buyer. We were helped by Nick who was absolutely attentive, professional, knowledgeable and personable. He spent quality time evaluating each and every item. They have been in business for 31 years! Their service was exceptional and I felt they were 100% trustworthy. They are a family owned business that makes a difference in our community. They display a QUALITY service with generations of knowledgeable and personal attention. Nick explained the entire process, equipment used, and basis for their high standard evaluation of our family's prized heirlooms. We felt comfortable and confident in their assessments and appreciated their prompt payment after completing a thorough evaluation. It also helped that Nick and Patrick both had a great sense of humor. They saw us as people, who relied upon their help and felt somewhat vulnerable after a long battle attempting to close an estate. We felt they were extremely fair and honest using fair market values. We have additional items needing assessment and plan on returning in the near future. I encourage you to come here. They do evaluations for free and place no pressure onclients to sell. This was simple, straightforward and painless. Thank you Nick, Patrick and family.
Krystal Collins profile pictureKrystal Collins
18:15 05 Apr 22
This is the perfect place to sell your old, broken and remaining earrings to. I was greeted as I entered. All of the associates were professional and kind to their customers. Nick assisted me and he was extremely helpful as he completed my transaction. I received the best value for my single earrings and broken gold necklaces. I highly recommend Houston Gold Buyers.
Cong Tran profile pictureCong Tran
18:50 25 Sep 19
First time going here and made some deals with them. Shoutout to Pete and Juan, they’ll take care of you like your family. Plenty of things available from Rolex to coins to estates. Fair pricing & hassle free.
David Dobb profile pictureDavid Dobb
14:10 25 Sep 19
I made a phone call to a coin dealer in Houston and the sales person was arrogant and didn't seem to care about what I was saying. The person was just trying to get me off the phone. My next phone call was to Ace Watch & Jewelry. The sales person was polite, friendly and knowledgeable. He took time and interest in the coins that I wanted to sell.
I went to their store the next day and sold my coins. The entire sales staff was friendly. They offered good prices for my coin collection.
I recommend Ace Watch & Jewelry to anyone who is interested in buying or selling coins & jewelry.
Mario Salazar profile pictureMario Salazar
21:11 06 Sep 19
Just came by to this place for the first time.
These people are extremely professional and awesome from the moment you walk in the door. I spoke with Nick who was extremely attentive to what I needed and made sure that I got the most for my gold chain! This will not be the last time I come here you guys have earned a great customer thank you so much for your great service!!!!!
Allan Purdy profile pictureAllan Purdy
21:22 09 Aug 19
Excellent company. Always gives a fair price when selling gold and silver. Friendly and easy to do business with.
Carlos Perez profile pictureCarlos Perez
19:01 31 Jul 19
I was searching for a reputable location to sell my gold necklace and bracelet which I no longer wear. I searched for Gold locations and I went in. It was amazing service, friendly, professional and informative. It was like chatting with friends. My transaction was quick and fast. I liked the fact that they asked for identification and provided you with documentation of your purchase or selling. This is important so that you are assured that what you sell or purchase was verified. I’ll definitely use this location again and will highly recommend it to my friends. Great job guys.
Sarah Preddy profile pictureSarah Preddy
19:42 22 Jul 19
I have been here several times within the last year and every time I come in I am treated like an old friend and also with complete professionalism. I love that it's a family run business snug in the heart of Montrose with a long history in the neighborhood. I've come a few times in need of guidance on exchanging coins I have at home and each and every employee I've met has been knowledgeable, honest and downright warm so that I left feeling like I'd made a wonderful choice. They have always been accommodating, I strongly recommend and will continue to give them my business in the future!
tung nguyen profile picturetung nguyen
18:16 09 Jul 19
Had a great experience here! Excellent service, friendly as hell, and very very fair prices. Drove from the woodlands just to do business with Pete and the awesome staff. Recommend to everybody. Thanks for a great experience Pete.
Katherine Kuklewicz profile pictureKatherine Kuklewicz
01:18 19 Jun 19
Absolutely love this shop! My family and I are regular customers and have only had positive experiences. The staff are incredibly knowledgeable about coins, watches, jewelry, antiques etc. Their “buy” and “sell” prices are simply the best and the staff are wonderfully friendly. I highly recommend this shop.
Roberto Segura profile pictureRoberto Segura
03:34 26 May 19
Great place, great prices, nice people, ask for juan
Andrew Nicholson profile pictureAndrew Nicholson
17:13 20 May 19
Been here twice for repairs on two different watches. Great experiences both times, fast, and friendly customer service.
Dave Campbell profile pictureDave Campbell
21:07 06 Apr 19
Juan is the best! I am very pleased with my Rolex. Great customer service, communication, and price! Very trustworthy. Do business with them!
LeSean. Lockridge profile pictureLeSean. Lockridge
18:42 03 Dec 18
extremely helpful, knowledgeable, patient and very compatible for any customer looking to dabble in buying, trading-in, and/or selling worthy jewelry/gold/silver. I recently brought in umpteenth pieces of silver collected over the years and Pedro "Pete" Martinez was excellent and swift in handling & compensating for the silver pieces I exchanged in for straight cash. Highly recommend this shop for any similar endeavors aforementioned
Alan Boyd profile pictureAlan Boyd
19:42 07 Nov 18
I recently found this place while trying to find somewhere to get my watched resized. I was in and out in less than 5 minutes and they didn't charge me a cent. They also has a cute dog that i got to pet while i waited. Good service and good dog, 10/10
Raul Lorenzo Al-Dhahri profile pictureRaul Lorenzo Al-Dhahri
19:05 12 Oct 18
Juan and Tanya are the best. Great service with warm welcoming. Any needs for watches, this is the place to come. Thanks again for your help.
Andrew Hardy profile pictureAndrew Hardy
19:46 02 Oct 18
This place is awesome. After getting low balled at other places for my Rolex watch. They offered me the best price and were very friendly and professional. I would highly recommend coming to ace watch and jewelry if your looking to sell your items!
Jim Porter profile pictureJim Porter
15:52 26 Sep 18
Sold em a chain and a coin. The process couldn't have been simpler, and I was given a great price. Highly recommended.
A Son of Liberty profile pictureA Son of Liberty
18:07 15 Sep 18
Outstanding! I recently bought a like-new Breitling 44 GMT here. Great price and outstanding service. Couldn't be happier with the watch or with the experience. Juan, I thank you!
Erica Lott profile pictureErica Lott
17:52 07 Aug 18
Had a great experience at Ace watch Houston. They were fair and they had a very friendly staff which makes the experience that much easier. I would definitely go back in the future!
Avi C profile pictureAvi C
16:33 06 Aug 18
Was looking for a place to sell my Rolex GMT Master II and didn’t want to deal with selling on the forums. I went to a couple other places before calling Pete at Ace Watch. He was true to his word and beat every other offer I’d received around town. Don’t waste your time going anywhere else...I know I won’t in the future.
Kyle Franklin profile pictureKyle Franklin
15:24 26 Jun 18
Great experience! Sold my SS Rolex Datejust. Super easy experience and got paid on the spot. Much easier than shipping it off to sell it online and got a better price. Would definitely come back!
Colton Price profile pictureColton Price
20:04 21 May 18
Awesome place! They pay great for gold and jewelry, the store is clean and quirky, the service is impeccable, and the selection of watches is amazing! I will definitely be coming back.
Elsie Newlin profile pictureElsie Newlin
18:56 03 May 18
Very pleasant and knowledgeable staff. I appreciate your help very much with the silver items I sold. Highly recommended. Thank you.
Brian O'Donnell profile pictureBrian O'Donnell
16:34 23 Mar 18
Shop owners and staff were extremely friendly and made for a welcoming experience. Highly recommended!
Lindsay Potter profile pictureLindsay Potter
12:19 23 Mar 18
Great customer service! Gave me a great price for my jewelry I was ready to get rid of. Will definitely be back!!
Caitlyn Williams profile pictureCaitlyn Williams
18:55 18 Feb 18
I came here to sell some jewelry from an ex-boyfriend. The staff were very friendly and greeted me as soon as I walked in. I let the gentleman at the counter take a look at the pieces and he was very honest and told me I would have more luck selling one of the pieces on my own and even gave me a price recommendation. The second item was a silver bracelet and they gave me a very fair price for it. This was my first time selling jewelry to a gold buyer and I was nervous, but the process was easy and the staff were great!
Dominique Young profile pictureDominique Young
01:43 11 Feb 18
The owner is very knowledgeable and incredibly friendly!!!! He fixed my jewelry correctly!! As opposed to going to Nordstrom where I purchased my watch, I went to him not because of yelp reviews but because the shop was in the area. He knew all about my watch and more. We chatted and I somehow forgot why I came. He was soo nice and professional. I told him I would write this review last year. I kept the receipt on my stand. That's the impression he made on me; a lasting one. A year later and here I am writing a review that I was supposed to do a long time ago!
Stephanie Ann profile pictureStephanie Ann
22:21 24 Jan 18
Came by to sell a few gold pieces and met with Tanya and Juan. Both are very professional, courteous, and friendly. While they were estimating my pieces I shopped and found their prices on gold and other items to be fairly priced. All in all, a great place to come should you be in the market to buy or sell.
Chuck Silverman profile pictureChuck Silverman
15:16 03 Jan 18
Excellent service. Honest and friendly.
Katherine Kuklewicz profile pictureKatherine Kuklewicz
02:41 03 Jan 18
Pete, Tanya and his staff are extremely nice and very helpful. The service was fantastic and the prices were great.
Kathy reichenthal profile pictureKathy reichenthal
13:58 14 Dec 17
I sold some silver yesterday. Found these guys on Goggle and their location was close. The nicest people and I think I got a better rate than the other place that I have used in the past. It was also quick and easy.

Ethel Kathleen R.
Edward Hernandez profile pictureEdward Hernandez
21:22 13 Dec 17
Tanya was excellent when I went by To Ace Watch! Very Knowledgable and very fair prices. Sold a nice 1950s Rolex and was given an extremely fair price. Went to 5 different places and received the best price here! Thank you guys!
Michael Weekley profile pictureMichael Weekley
19:54 02 Aug 17
Came in to get some links removed from a few watches. These guys are honest and very helpful. The Little Watch Shop had tried to charge $40 to remove a link that Ace removed for free in a few seconds. Will always bring simple watch repairs back to these guys - very trustworthy.